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What are HHOs in car systems?

The scientific term HHO stands for oxyhydrogen, a mixture of hydrogen and oxygen with a concentration ratio of two parts hydrogen and one part oxygen. Oxyhydrogen is also used in welding torches, but it has other uses in a vehicle engine. HHOs in automotive systems are oxyhydrogen gas generators that use water and a catalyst (known as an electrolyte solution) along with an electrical current to produce this gas.

Oxyhydrogen is burned together with the main fuel of the engine (gasoline or diesel) and helps the main fuel to burn completely, getting more energy for the same amount of fuel used by the engine. This additional (gained) power is more than the engine load needs to run optimally, so the engine’s main fuel can be weakened, while the engine delivers the same torque for that particular load.

When oxyhydrogen (also known as hydroxy gas) burns, it reverts to its original formation before electrolysis took place, which means it turns into vapor, which is fine droplets of water.

Different types of HHO in car systems
There are primarily two types of HHO in automotive systems, comprising the wet HHO cell and dry HHO cell configurations. Both systems produce the resulting hydroxyl gas, but differ in their technical design. Originally, the experimental electrolysis process was carried out under the wet HHO cell design to produce hydrogen in laboratories. The wet cell configuration remains basically the same.

When experimenters began using this setup as a fuel saving device, word soon spread and many DIY technicians began trying to improve the design by using different materials, setup designs, and different catalysts. The wet cell design has improved significantly over the years and has also become more reliable. Through continuous research and development, enthusiastic designers came up with an entirely new idea to reduce the maintenance time associated with wet cell design. Fortunately, the latest design also became much more compact, which was a big plus with the cramped modern engine compartments. This became known as the HHO dry cell design.

Wet HHO Cell vs. dry HHO cell
We have tried many different designs currently on the market and even ended up creating an HHO product reviews page for these DIY HHO tech guides. We have found that, in general, both designs have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of wet cell design:

  • Easier to clean periodically as a preventative maintenance procedure
  • Easier and faster to change corroded anode plates
  • Does not have many seals that will eventually deteriorate or harden
  • Cheaper to build compared to most dry cell designs
  • No additional external pumps needed for electrolyte

Disadvantages of wet cell design:

  • Bulky design that can be a problem to install in modern engine bays
  • Frequent anode corrosion due to oxidation leading to increased cleaning
  • Anode plates will need to be replaced more frequently due to excessive corrosion.
  • Wet cell design generates more heat in the electrolyte solution
  • More current needed compared to dry HHO cell design
  • Electrolyte design needs more frequent flushing with fresh, clean electrolyte

Advantages of dry cell design:

  • Very compact in nature both in width and thickness.
  • Requires less current to operate consistently
  • Heat buildup in the HHO generator is almost non-existent
  • Electrolyte stays cleaner for longer intervals
  • Anode plates corrode much less
  • Terminals do not corrode as they are isolated from the electrolyte
  • Less periodic maintenance is generally needed

Disadvantages of the dry cell design:

  • More expensive to produce or build one as a DIY project
  • More precision is needed to build the design.
  • Each cell is separated by a seal that will eventually harden and start leaking.
  • Preventive maintenance procedures require disassembling the entire HHO generator into pieces
  • In most designs an external pump is needed for the electrolyte

As you have seen from above, both wet and dry HHO in car designs have their pros and cons. Depending on the space available in the engine compartment, it is an important factor to consider before attempting such an installation. Most modern vehicles that seem to have very little available space will likely need the dry cell design for two main reasons: less space is required and less frequent maintenance. This allows the installation to be placed in even the tightest and most difficult to access areas, if that is your only available option. A common option is to install the dry cell HHO generator in front of the radiator, just behind the bumper or behind the front fender, in the area of ​​the wheel that is covered by a factory plastic fender liner.

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Baking Bread – Cuban Pan De Ajo (Cuban Garlic Bread)

Last week I went to Miami for the first time to sample and report on Miami’s vibrant food community. What I found was a food community filled with amazing exile stories, perilous ocean-crossing adventures, and wonderful snapshots of great Miami food, especially Cuban food. Along with my staff member, Emily, we especially fell in love with the smell, taste, texture, and serving methods of the Cuban bread.

Cuban sandwiches are world renowned and a staple in any Cuban restaurant. Emily thinks it’s the bread that makes the sandwich. That debate can go on forever. Today’s Cuban white bread is not at all complex, but quite simple. It has a different baking method and is made with different ingredients than French or Italian bread. The bread is baked in a cold oven over boiling water before it reaches the desired baking temperature. Cuban bread is then baked with a little lard or vegetable shortening. True Cuban bread is baked in long baguette-style loaves. It doesn’t have condoms so it won’t last long. After a few days, the bread becomes extremely hard. This bread is made to be enjoyed right away. The best way to use it besides a sandwich is to serve it for breakfast. In Cuban homes, the bread is toasted with butter and served with a hot cup of café con leche for breakfast.

This bread baking recipe is a great way to savor and enjoy Cuban bread. It’s easy to prepare and combines wonderful flavors to form a great showcase of Cuban food and culture.

Garlic Bread (Cuban Garlic Bread)

Serves 8-10

1/2 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons melted butter
6 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon white pepper
1 loaf (2 feet) Cuban or French bread, cut into 1-inch-thick slices

1. Combine oil, butter, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Let this mixture sit for at least 15 minutes, so the flavors meld.

2. Preheat oven to 350*F.

3. Spread the garlic mixture on one side of each slice of bread.

4. Place the bread slices on a baking sheet and bake for 6 to 10 minutes, until the butter has melted and the bread is golden brown.

Serve immediately.

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Top 5 Hybrid Cars of 2011

A hybrid vehicle is a vehicle that uses two or more different energy sources to move the vehicle. The term most commonly refers to hybrid electric vehicles (HEVs), which combine an internal combustion engine and one or more electric motors. Hybrid vehicles are popular because they appeal to a wide range of consumers. The environmentally conscious may appreciate the ultra-low or zero emissions and incredible fuel economy, while the economically minded may appreciate the low vehicle depreciation and cost savings at the gas station. I have listed the Top 5 Hybrid Car List below and you can decide which is the best hybrid car for you.

1.Toyota Prius hybrid

Toyota Prius is the third best-selling gasoline-electric hybrid model in the United States. The Toyota company produced its first hybrid Prius car in 2003. Toyota started selling its third generation Toyota Prius in 2009. When they sell the third generation, other companies start to introduce their first hybrid car.

specs

Larger and more powerful than previous models, the four-cylinder engine grew in displacement from 1.5 liters to 1.8 litres, combined with a 36 kW electric motor, reduced time from zero to 60 in a full second, increases horsepower from 110 to 134, MPG: 51 city/48 highway.

2. Honda Insight Hybrid

This new five-passenger Insight continues to use Honda’s conventional mild-hybrid system called Integrated Motor Assist. While it’s less expensive than the Toyota Prius, it’s also less roomy and rear access is awkward. The ride is stiff and choppy and road noise is pronounced. The handling lacks agility and can be tricky at the limits. Stability control is conspicuously absent on the base LX trim, but it’s standard on the EX. The crash test results are impressive.

specs

Automatic climate control, remote keyless entry, power windows, door locks and outside mirrors, tilt/telescoping steering column, manual driver’s seat height adjustment, AM/FM/CD audio system with two speakers, entry auxiliary audio and unique seat fabric. All Insight models are equipped with electronic stability control as standard for 2011.

3.Ford Fusion Hybrid

The Ford Fusion Hybrid was launched on the United States market in March 2009 as a 2010 model, along with its twin, the Mercury Milan Hybrid. This is a gasoline-electric hybrid version of the mid-size Ford Fusion sedan developed by the Ford Motor Company. The Ford Fusion Hybrid sets a new benchmark in hybrid technology. It combines a seamless and sophisticated hybrid powertrain with the excellent Fusion platform, positioned solidly in the middle of the mainstream market.

specs

10-way power adjustable driver’s seat, dual-zone climate control, automatic headlights, keyless entry, power windows, mirrors and locks, capless refueling, traction control and ABS. Also included are a six-speaker stereo, eco-responsible seats, 17-inch wheels, traction control, and a reverse sensor.

4.Honda CR-Z Hybrid

Honda’s latest foray into the hybrid realm, the CR-Z, is a fresh take on the hybrid thing. Honda is marketing the CR-Z as a sporty hybrid, rather than a purely eco-friendly car. CR-Z stands for ‘Compact Renaissance Zero’, which likely plays into its new approach of using a hybrid engine to deliver a mix of sportiness and economy. But no matter how Honda explains how they ended up with the CR-Z name, the car is an obvious successor to the popular CRX hatchback of the 1980s and early 1990s.

specs

Heated mirrors, fog lights and HID projector headlights inside, this hybrid gains Bluetooth, available navigation, a leather-wrapped steering wheel, aluminum pedals and polished interior accents, a six-speed manual transmission with an aluminum shifter and ambient lighting. heated mirrors, fog lights and HID projector headlamps. Inside, this hybrid gains Bluetooth, available navigation, a leather-wrapped steering wheel, aluminum pedals and polished interior trim, a six-speed manual transmission with an aluminum shifter, and ambient lighting. CR-Z stands for ‘Compact Renaissance Zero’, which likely plays into its new approach of using a hybrid engine to deliver a mix of sportiness and economy. But no matter how Honda explains how they ended up with the CR-Z name, the car is an obvious successor to the popular CRX hatchback of the 1980s and early 1990s.

5. Lexus RX 450H Hybrid

Lexus has timed the unveiling of its latest RX450h to perfection, at a time when green issues are making headlines and buyers at all price points are taking a close look at fuel economy and carbon dioxide emissions. Where this generation takes a big step forward is in those specific figures, offering a supposed reduction in fuel consumption of 28 percent. The Lexus RX model has been on sale since 2001 and has always offered a comfortable, road-oriented take on the SUV sector.

specs

Gas Mileage is 32 city/28 highway mpg, Engine Type: 3.5L V6 Gas/Electric, EPA Class: 2WD Sport Utility, Style Name: FWD 4dr Hybrid, Drivetrain: Front Wheel Drive, Capacity Passenger Capacity: 5, Passenger Doors: 4, Body Style: Sport Utility.

More Top 5 Lists

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Things to Consider When Buying Auto Parts Online

Today, the Internet is considered one of the wonderful and exciting ways to buy and sell products. There are a plethora of options to access that you may never have known about. One industry that has seen rapid change with the growth of online shopping concepts is the auto parts industry. Buying cars and auto parts online had become a regular feature now for all car owners. Buying any car part or truck part online not only helps you save time, it even gives you the option to evaluate the specifications and cost of different manufacturers. On the other hand, with conventional auto parts dealers, the chances are greater when you would be forced to decide only on the particular brands that they had in stock.

Buying auto parts or truck parts online is definitely a great way to overcome shopping hassles. Today, with the right words typed into the search engine, you can find many different websites that cater to your auto parts needs. It is very clear that buying car or truck parts online is easy, effective and profitable. However, there are some basic tips that should not be overlooked when buying auto parts online.

Here are some important tips to keep in mind before buying auto parts online:

Check for manuals and information – On the net you can find numerous resources that can help you find the product according to your desired needs. But it is always more advisable to search for online manuals or detailed product information regarding the specification of an auto replacement part. Since different models of the same vehicle may use auto parts whose specifications may vary minutely.

know your seller – As online shopping has gained in popularity, there are now many scams trying to target uninformed consumers. Therefore, it is very important that you buy the product from a reputable company or private seller that has a proven track record. You can ask your friends or colleagues who might have bought an auto part from the same seller you are looking for.

Compare prices and promotions – Always try to avoid being instantly snagged on a deal that seems too good to pass up. It’s always good to take some time to browse through the various top-performing auto parts dealer sites and write down what each dealer offers for the particular auto part you’re looking for.

Pay attention to the details – Paying close attention to detail can ensure a reliable transaction. For example, you can check to see if the “product checkout” page of the website you’re visiting displays a lock icon in the lower-right corner of your browser window. This little icon indicates that the site is using strong encryption to protect your credit card information.

These are very basic tips, but when overlooked, they will really land you in online shopping hell.

In today’s economy, auto parts may well be beyond your budget. It is possible that even if you have a fairly new car, you may not be able to find the replacement parts at a local auto parts store located near you. In such a case, you may be able to find the seller’s contact information on various resources on the Internet. While it may take some research to locate them, you’ll at least be able to save some money.

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The Difference Between Heavy-Duty and Full-Size Pickup Trucks

You’ve probably heard truck manufacturers say they have the best heavy-duty trucks. Or they may say they have the best full size pickups or compact pickups.

Do you know what each of these means?

Understanding these simple terms will help you a lot when comparing different attractions. It helps a lot when you are buying a new truck. This article will provide you with an understanding of the different and most common harvesting classes.

Heavy Duty Trucks

Heavy-duty pickup trucks are the trucks you want for tough jobs. These trucks have powerful engines as well as reinforced seats. A heavy truck offers the maximum towing capacity and payload.

If you’re looking to tow a large trailer or haul heavy cargo, you’ll want to get a heavy-duty truck. Popular heavy duty models include:

ram hd
ford superduty
Chevrolet Silverado HD

They typically cost between $25,000 and $60,000. It all depends on the features you want to include.

full size trucks

These trucks have slightly less horsepower than heavy-duty pickups. While they may be less powerful, they still hold up and have respectable towing and payload capabilities. Popular full-size pickups include:

ford f-150
ram 1500
GMC Sierra 1500/Chevrolet Silverado 1500
tundra
nissan titan

These trucks typically cost between $15,000 and $45,000. These are the most popular trucks on the road today. That’s because they provide enough size and power. Many owners like to add aftermarket truck accessories such as truck bed systems as well as truck track accessories.

compact trucks

These are the smallest trucks you can buy. While they don’t offer much power, these trucks are reasonably priced and get great gas mileage. Most of these trucks are priced between $15,000 and $25,000. It all depends on the options you select.

When it comes to compact trucks, here are some of the most popular:

toyota tacoma
chevrolet colorado
ram dakota
GMC cannon

As with the larger pickup trucks, it has crew cab and longer bed options. It all depends on your preferences. It may also include a V6 engine with respectable power.

Summary

All of these pills are great options. When deciding which truck is right for you, think about your work and lifestyle.

If you tow a lot and want more room, you may want to consider a full-size or heavy-duty truck. Your budget will also play a factor. If you’re looking for a good-size truck that’s reasonably priced, you’ll probably go for a full-size truck.

Whatever size truck you select, be sure to set aside part of your budget for any modifications. This can include bed liners, tonneau covers, grill guards, etc.

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Precipitation Hardened Stainless Steel

Precipitation hardening stainless steels are iron-nickel-chromium alloys containing one or more precipitation hardening elements such as aluminum, titanium, copper, niobium, and molybdenum. Precipitation hardening is achieved by a relatively simple aging treatment of the manufactured part.

The two main characteristics of all precipitation hardening stainless steels are high strength and high corrosion resistance. Unfortunately, high strength comes at the expense of toughness. The corrosion resistance of precipitation-hardened stainless steels is comparable to that of standard AISI 304 and AISI 316 austenitic alloys. Aging treatments are designed to optimize strength, corrosion resistance, and toughness. To improve toughness, the amount of carbon is kept low.

The first commercial precipitation hardening stainless steel was developed by US Steel in 1946. The alloy was named Stainless W (AISI 635) and its nominal chemical composition (in wt%) was Fe-0.05C-16.7Cr-6.3Ni-0.2 Al-0.8Ti.

The precipitation hardening process involves the formation (precipitation) of very fine intermetallic phases such as Ni3Al, Ni3Ti, Ni3(Al,Ti), NiAl, Ni3Nb, Ni3Cu, carbides and Laves (AB2) phases. Prolonged aging causes coarsening of these intermetallic phases, which in turn causes a decrease in strength, due to the fact that thick intermetallic phases can be bypassed by dislocations.

There are three types of precipitation hardening stainless steels:

– Precipitation hardening martensitic stainless steels, for example, 17-4 PH (AISI 630), Stainless W, 15-5 PH, CROLOY 16-6 PH, CUSTOM 450, CUSTOM 455, PH 13-8 Mo, ALMAR 362, IN-736, etc., – precipitation hardening austenitic stainless steels, for example, A-286 (AISI 600), 17-10 P, HNM, etc., and – precipitation hardening semi-austenitic stainless steels, for example, 17- PH 7 (AISI 631), PH 15-7 MB, AM-350, AM-355, PH 14-8 MB, etc.

The type is determined by the martensite start and martensite end temperatures (Ms and Mf), as well as the quenched microstructure.

During heat treatment of precipitation hardening stainless steels, regardless of their type, austenitization in the single-phase austenite region is always the first step. Austenitization is then followed by relatively rapid cooling (annealing).

Precipitation Hardening Martensitic Stainless Steel

During heat treatment of precipitation hardening stainless steels, regardless of their type, austenitization in the single-phase austenite region is always the first step. Austenitization is then followed by relatively rapid cooling (annealing).

The martensite finishing temperature (Mf) of precipitation hardening martensitic stainless steels -such as 17-4 PH (AISI 630), Stainless W, 15-5 PH, CROLOY 16-6 PH, CUSTOM 450, CUSTOM 455, PH 13- 8 MB, ALMAR 362 and IN-736: It is just above room temperature. Therefore, on cooling from the solution treatment temperature, they completely transform to martensite. Precipitation hardening is achieved by a single aging treatment at 480°C to 620°C (896°F to 1148°F) for 1 to 4 hours.

The martensite starting temperature (Ms) of precipitation-hardening martensitic stainless steels is required to be above room temperature to ensure complete transformation from martensite to austenite on cooling.

One of the empirical equations often used to predict the onset temperature of martensite (in °F) is as follows:

Ms = 2160 – 66 (% Cr) – 102 (% Ni) – 2620 (% C + % N)

where Cr = 10-18%, Ni = 5-12.5% ​​and C + N = 0.035-0.17%.

Precipitation hardening in martensitic steels is achieved by reheating to temperatures at which very fine intermetallic phases such as Ni3Al, Ni3Ti, Ni3(Al,Ti), NiAl, Ni3Nb, Ni3Cu, carbides and Laves phase precipitate.

A lath structure of martensite provides a large number of nucleation sites for the precipitation of intermetallic phases.

Precipitation Hardening Austenitic Stainless Steel

Austenitic grades are the least used of the three types of precipitation hardening stainless steels. From a metallurgical point of view, they can be considered precursors to nickel-based and cobalt-based superalloys. An example would be the work on the precipitation hardening austenitic alloy Fe-10Cr-35Ni-1.5Ti-1.5Al, which was done before World War II.

The martensite initiation temperature (Ms) of precipitation-hardenable austenitic stainless steels, such as A-286 (AISI 600), 17-10 P and HNM, is so low that they cannot be transformed into martensite. The nickel content of precipitation-hardening austenitic stainless steels is high enough to completely stabilize the austenite at room temperature.

The highly stable nature of the austenitic matrix eliminates all potential problems related to embrittlement, even at extremely low temperatures. Precipitation hardening austenitic stainless steels are therefore very attractive alloys when it comes to cryogenic applications.

Hardening is achieved by precipitation of a very fine, coherent, intermetallic Ni3Ti phase when the austenite is reheated to elevated temperatures. Precipitation in precipitation-hardening austenitic stainless steels is considerably slower compared to precipitation-hardening martensitic or semi-austenitic stainless steels. For example, to achieve near peak cure on A-286 (AISI 600), 16 hours at 718°C (1325°F) are required.

Like all precipitation hardening stainless steels, the strength of A-286 (AISI 600) can be further increased by cold working before aging.

Precipitation-hardening austenitic stainless steels do not contain magnetic phases and, in general, have higher corrosion resistance than precipitation-hardening martensitic or semi-austenitic stainless steels.

Semi-austenitic precipitation hardened stainless steel

Precipitation hardening semi-austenitic stainless steels are supplied in the metastable austenitic state. They may also contain up to 20% delta ferrite in equilibrium with austenite at solution temperature. The metastable nature of the austenitic matrix depends on the amounts of austenite stabilizing elements and ferrite stabilizing elements.

The martensite finishing temperature (Mf) of precipitation-hardening semi-austenitic stainless steels, such as PH 17-7 (AISI 631), PH 15-7 Mo, AM-350, AM-355 and PH 14-8 Mo, is well below room temperature. Consequently, its microstructure is efficiently austenitic (and highly ductile) on cooling from the solution treatment temperature.

After formation, the transformation from austenite to martensite is achieved by a conditioning treatment at approximately 750 °C (1382 °F), whose main objective is to raise the Mf temperature to the temperature close to room temperature through the precipitation of carbides. alloy (mainly chrome-rich M23C6 carbides). This, in turn, reduces the carbon and chromium content of the austenite (see the formula above for the temperature of Ms which shows that if the amount of carbon and chromium dissolved in the austenite is reduced, the temperature of Ms increases significantly) . The transformation to martensite is complete on cooling.

Cryogenic (subzero) treatment is required if a high conditioning temperature is used, typically 930°C to 955°C (1706°F to 1751°F). At such high temperatures, the amount of alloy carbides that precipitate is relatively small, causing the Mf temperature to be well below room temperature. The strength of the martensite thus formed (conditioning at high temperature + cryogenic treatment) is higher than that formed by transformation at lower temperatures, due to the higher carbon content of the former.

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Save time with a 50cc scooter

Any price trade-off you may feel at first when you buy a 50cc scooter will soon be completely negative for the fuel economy you are sure of with the scooter. With an average mileage of about 100 miles per gallon, you can be sure of one thing: you won’t have to spend a lot of gas dollars. Things would be relatively inexpensive, especially for your commute to and from your office at least. You can also use the 50cc scooter for your quick trips to the market and still not spend a lot of money on fuel.

Buying a 50cc scooter just because it’s more cost-effective than a regular bike or your car is pretty much understood. This is especially true if all you want to do with your scooter is take short trips, and on busy roads. It probably doesn’t make sense to drive like this on busy roads. The point is that 50cc scooters have many features that make them ideal vehicles to drive, even for short distances. This way you could save a lot of money, which might not have been possible with other bikes.

Perhaps the thought of having to buy a scooter could have snuck in as easily as you imagined, but from here on out to end up buying a good quality 50cc scooter you have to do a lot of things. This probably means that you will have to end up doing a lot of research on the scooter you intend to buy. This type of research is very important so that we end up having the best quality 50cc scooters; Otherwise, there might be chances that you have a bad product with you, which is not what you want after spending all the money.

Maintenance is a critical aspect every time you buy a car for your home. From the smallest bikes to the largest SUVs, good maintenance almost always ensures that the vehicle lasts longer. And therefore maintenance is also critical for a scooter. Although they are nowhere near the largest bikes in terms of size, the sleek design of these 50cc scooters makes it very important that you take care of them. It doesn’t take much science to tell you what could probably happen to your scooter if you don’t take care of it the right way.

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Buying the best – Longboards as gifts

First Time Buyer Mistakes

Many first-time buyers, especially parents, grandparents, or non-longboarders in general, often choose longboard gifts based on graphic design. That is, they find a nice image or some design that they think fits the user’s personality.

What is really important?

Well, while a good ride is important, the feel and performance of this longboard should always come first. So be careful. If you don’t want to be disappointed, you’ll have to do a little homework and do some poking around…

What are the popular brands and intended use?

If your longboarder is an experienced rider, you’ve already been given a make and model. Alternatively, maybe a list of components to buy. If not, however, your first task is to identify popular local brands. And I don’t mean looking at a department store. Some of the best known national brands are: Gold Coast Longboards, Sector 9, Loaded, Gravity, Comet, Arbor, Original or Never Summer, to name a few. So listen carefully to the talk in the neighborhood or at the kitchen table, and make a mental note if one of these names is mentioned.

If you’ve identified a particular brand, then you’re well on your way to choosing the “best longboard ever.” Now you need to identify your desired driving style. Will it be just transportation, downhill racing, a bit of slalom, or all of the above? This makes a huge difference, as each of the brands listed above has dozens of models that have been individually designed, component by component, to deliver the riding experience specific to the riders riding style and purpose.

Designed for Multi-Purpose Longboard.

To cut a long story short, let’s look for an all-purpose longboard that provides a new longboarder with the most versatility and riding pleasure. We will start by discussing the various components to include the deck, trucks, wheels, and bearings.

It starts with a well-designed deck.

The basic properties of a platform are: length, width, shape, flexibility, and truck mounting configuration. Although longboard sizes range from 32 inches to 60 inches, a good starting point would be around 40 inches. The width varies from 7 to 10 inches, but for now I would recommend a width of around 8.25 inches. For the overall shape I would recommend a pin tail (teardrop shape) with a kick tail (the tail of the board is slightly curved upwards). Stability is a factor when you are just learning. I would recommend, a medium flex using a top mount truck system instead of a lower to start. Board construction varies, but I’d stick with 5-7 ply with some camber and concave from edge to edge for better edge control. Lastly, this brings us to the subject of duct tape. For me, this might be where I would avoid the taped-up models and allow the new longboarder to apply their own to customize the look.

Buy “complete” when you buy your first longboard.

Now this part is easy, identifying the trucks, wheels and bearings. Once your longboarder finds his own riding style and activities, he’ll want to customize everything for himself. For now, he must buy “complete”. That is one that already has everything assembled. Each manufacturer has matched the size of the truck to the size of the bed and has taken into account the shape of the bed and overall flexibility. The wheels will also be compatible, usually using a softer wheel that allows for better grip and minimizes unplanned slippage. For bearings, if you see the word bone, then you have found a good industry standard to start with. However, keep it simple. Once you decide on a brand and the platform properties described above, choose any model that comes complete.

the end goal

The goal when trying to find the best longboard gift is to find one that provides a satisfying ride, is popular with friends, and gives the rider room to grow and experiment with the sport of longboarding. And now with this little information, you should have no problem reaching the goal.

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Strut Bar: is it really necessary in your car?

Strut Bars are the evolutionary aftermarket addition to regular McPherson Struts. Usually a favorite in car customization and an integral part of heavy trucks and SUVs, strut bars are now finding their place in the sun when it comes to regular small cars as well.

People consider additional struts, especially horizontal bars, as high-performance additions to their cars. There is a general belief that McPherson struts or independent suspensions can be unstable at higher speeds. As an added feature to increase stability, the independent suspensions on each side of the vehicle are linked by a common horizontal bar called the Strut Bar.

The two suspensions on each side when connected by a common link experience reduced flex between them and that provides much needed stability at higher speeds. This is an important feature in large heavy duty vehicles and performance cars, but what makes people think rebar can stabilize their small cars? Do smaller cars really need stability?

Well, the answer is No. Unless you’re traveling at really high speeds, which you shouldn’t do with normal cars anyway, you definitely don’t need additional struts to support your car’s suspension. Auto experts believe that horizontal struts have become popular as a high-performance addition to cars in the name of car customization. There’s no real need for regular cars to have extra struts, but in case someone wants their vehicle to have one, there’s no serious damage either.

At best, the additional struts will make your car’s suspension stiffer, reducing ride comfort, especially on rougher terrain. Since the suspensions are linked together, there may be a slight vibration on rough roads due to reduced independent movement. Also, the added weight of the strut can decrease gas mileage to some extent. In case you are hell-bent on repairing additional struts on your vehicle, make sure you ask an expert mechanic to do it or else there may be serious performance issues with your car’s suspension.

Most sports cars, light and heavy duty trucks, SUVs, 4x4s and ATVs are available with reinforcement bars as standard equipment.

So what kind of vehicles need a reinforcement bar if they don’t have one as standard equipment?

If you are tuning your regular car to run at higher speeds and exhibit higher accelerations or fueling it with turbochargers and NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems), then the booster bar will be a useful addition to the package. If you own a larger vehicle and don’t have a reinforcement bar as a standard accessory, you should invest in one. In that case, I’d suggest used rebar, since they’re almost a third of the cost of new.

To conclude, you are the best person to assess whether or not your car needs a reinforcement bar. Although it is not a decision to weigh, you can weigh the pros and cons depending on the type of vehicle you own and the type of use you subject it to.

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How to make Stuffing for Thanksgiving

Filling. In or out of the bird, stuffing is one of those foods that seem like a must-have during the holidays. It’s not a difficult dish to make if you have the right ingredients and a little time. Yes, it may take a bit of effort to create that new family classic, but it will be worth it. I will tell you that once you decide what additions you want for your filling, you will be able to do it very quickly.

For any filling you will need:

PAN: This can be a pre-packaged seasoned filling from the grocery store. This type has small pieces of dry bread that already have the typical condiments incorporated. You can get multiple versions or even a “fill mix”. These are convenient and thousands of people use them each year.

You can also bake cornbread the day before, let it cool and then cut it into pieces to make your filling. The cornbread stuffing is also a classic that will be served on thousands of tables this year.

If you have a family member who loves fillings but is on a restricted diet (low carb, diabetic, or following a glycemic diet), you may decide to use a whole grain bread. Whole grain breads can be purchased in loaves at a bakery and are sometimes found prepackaged on the grocery store shelf. Of course, you always have the option of making your favorite recipe a day or two ahead of time.

It is important to use bread that is at least one day old. Day-old bread seems to absorb liquids more easily and produces a softer filling.

LIQUID – Once you have your bread you will need the liquids. This is usually a good stock or broth that is added to dry breads. You can use one of the homemade or grocery store versions. I prefer homemade because I can control the salt and additives, but the choice is personal. For example, for turkey stuffing, I usually drop all the gizzards, neck, excess skin, and bones into a large pot of water with a quartered onion and let it simmer on the stove for several hours. I also like Herb Ox broth which I can mix with water to make a broth. This brand has 0 salt and with a husband on a low salt diet it is a great find.

TRINIDAD ‘SANTA’ – Ok, well, not really holy, but the standard mix used in just about any stuffing. In fact, I can’t think of a time when I wouldn’t use it in a stuffing recipe. The trinity is simply onion, celery, and carrots. Usually diced and cooked until tender in a saucepan with a little butter or oil. This gives the most important base flavor to your filling.

ADDITIVES – You can add just about anything you want to the filling and have a delicious version your family will love. Fruit, nuts, oysters, sausage, you name it.

This is one of my family’s favorite versions. It’s simple but offers great flavor and is perfect with a good turkey gravy.

MOM’S WALNUT AND CRANBERRY STUFFING – Mom is me. I have been making this recipe for over 30 years and my family always complains if I try to make anything different.

Will need:

  • 1 bag herb seasoned stuffing mix – regular or cornbread variety
  • 2-3 cups good broth or turkey broth (or you can use chicken)
  • 2 sachets of beef chicken broth with herbs
  • 1 can of mushroom soup
  • 1 cup of chopped walnuts
  • 4 tablespoons of butter (1/2 stick)
  • 1 cup (approximately) trinity (one small onion, 2 carrots, 2 diced celery stalks)
  • 1 teaspoon poultry seasoning
  • 1 granny smith apple, diced
  • 1 cup blueberries (dried cranberries work well, but you can also use fresh or frozen cranberries)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Place the stock or broth in a saucepan and heat over medium heat until it begins to boil. Dissolve broth, poultry seasoning, and soup in broth. Turn off the heat and add the dry Craisins. Stir and let cool slightly. Meanwhile, in a saucepan melt the butter and add the trinity. Sprinkle with just a pinch of salt and cook over medium heat until vegetables are tender and onion is translucent.

Place the pecans on a cookie sheet and “roast” about 5 minutes, one ounce thick, at 350 degrees F. This helps release the flavors of the pecans. You can also do this in a dry pan on the stovetop, but usually my oven is already on and my burners are using up.

For the filling mixture (bread) in a large bowl. Add the diced apple and walnuts and stir. Add the trinity mixture. For in the broth (or broth) mix and mix well. The stuffing should be very moist but not wet or soggy. Sometimes I have to add a little more broth. If you add more broth, make sure it heats up first.

Spoon the filling mixture into a baking pan and bake at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes. I like to sprinkle some pecans and Craisins on top. You can also use this to stuff the bird, just remember to never store leftover turkey with the stuffing inside. If using it on the bird, use a thermometer to make sure the stuffing reaches at least 150 degrees.