Hello from Sicily – A Fantastic Mount Etna Driving Tour
Today was Labor Day in Italy, a huge national holiday that presented the perfect opportunity for a little excursion outside the city: a walk up Mount Etna. So together with Jill, a fellow student of mine from England, we rented a little two-door Lancia for a drive through the countryside. At 50 euros, the rental wasn’t exactly cheap, but we thought it would be worth it to be able to explore the countryside around Taormina.
We had to deal with fueling the car first – our rental car was essentially empty and we were only supposed to put as much fuel in the car as we thought we would use so we could return the car empty as well. Gas stations were officially closed on this holiday and, unlike in North America, there was no option to use a credit card to pay at the pump. The pump, however, had a small slot into which bills could be inserted, and one of the local drivers patiently took his time explaining the system to me.
With enough fuel to cover a couple of hundred kilometers, we set out on our excursion into the countryside. At Giardini Naxos we turn inland towards our first destination: the “Gole di Alcantara”, the Alcantara river gorge that is carved out of black basalt rock. Signs on the country road pointed to the Alcantara Gorge parking lot, so we parked our vehicle and walked into the complex. A simple 20-minute tour to see the river and the strange rock formations would cost 3 euros, while longer tours and river wading tours are also available. We descended several flights of stairs to reach the riverbed from where we got a good look at some of the interesting rock formations. Unless you wanted to walk across the river, there was nowhere to go but back up another set of stairs.
Once at the top we found that if we had taken this entrance we would have been able to see the gorge for free. We were a couple hundred yards from our parked car and there was a small stand on the side of the road that was actually the tourist information booth for this inland area. Two ladies provided us with a variety of brochures and information on the towns surrounding Mount Etna, and I must admit the service was better and more knowledgeable than the tourist office in Taormina, which happens to be a much larger resort.
We decided to explore some of the pretty hilltop villages that are patched against rocky outcroppings, providing an amazing vantage point of the surrounding countryside. Following a sign for a town called Motta Camastra, we turned onto a narrow, winding road that led us slowly to the top of this crag. At the bottom of town was a public parking spot and we figured it was better to park our car there and walk than try to navigate the unimaginably narrow roads that snaked through this small hilltop town.
Just as we had parked our car, a local resident in his fifties started shouting at us in Italian from his balcony and saying hello. It took us a while to realize that he was actually inviting us over to his place for a beer. We gracefully decline and continue our walk. Jill commented that the local Sicilians had shown a marked interest in her and attributed this to her remarkably pale English complexion. After about 10 minutes of walking through small cobbled paths, we reached the main square, which had a bar with about 20 older men sitting outside. Most of them wore caps similar to French berets and were engaged in a lively discussion. There was no woman to be seen.
Our walk continued to the old church and from there we followed a walkway past narrow houses to a viewpoint with views of the entire mountainous area. Sleepy cats lounged lazily on the sidewalk, here and there women watered flowers outside their apartments. The view towards Mount Etna, the Alcantara valley and various mountaintop villages perched precariously against different rocky outcrops was breathtaking.
After Motta Camastra, we decided to explore another of these hilltop villages and, following a beautiful drive through a countryside full of vineyards, we arrived at a place called Rocella Valdemone about 45 minutes later. We parked the car right next to the church in the old town and walked through the square. At the other end of this public square we saw the obligatory bar which again featured around 15-20 older gentlemen fully engrossed in animated discussion. I assumed they were probably talking about football. We got the definite impression that tourists don’t come here very often because we certainly stuck out like a sore thumb and the locals looked at us a bit like we were a novelty. Again, the women were conspicuous by their absence, with the occasional exception of those who were sweeping the pavement in front of the house and then disappearing inside again.
Nature was calling and we asked at the bar if we could use the bathroom. One thing about Italy is that there are very few public toilets, but thankfully the local bars are pretty cool about their facilities being used by non-paying strangers. However, this particular facility was in a pretty deplorable state, and when I left I asked Jill to make sure she didn’t touch any of the surfaces for fear of contracting a horrible communicating disease. The facility got the job done, but it was certainly anything but a shining example of hygiene and cleanliness.
Our driving tour continued with a trip to the mountainous area. The tree cover became sparser and suddenly we were in a mountainous area that must have been 1500-2000m high with a beautiful 360 degree view north and east to the sea and south and west. west towards Mount Etna. Hundreds of local Italian families had their cars parked on small side roads leading to what looked like goat pastures and were having picnics. We didn’t seem to see any tourists, and we realized that this is what Italians do on a holiday in Sicily: picnic in the high mountain areas around Mount Etna…
We had come prepared: before our departure we had bought prosciutto, cheese, fresh rolls, fruit and drinks at the local Taormina supermarket and this was our time for our little picnic. Due to the cold wind blowing on this high mountain plateau, we stayed in the car for lunch, but nevertheless our view through the windshield was simply beautiful.
After a very satisfying impromptu meal, we drove back from the mountains towards Mount Etna, passing a large number of parked cars whose owners had hiked somewhere in this mountainous terrain. At one intersection, a local woman was selling homemade cheeses and sausages, evidence of Italian culinary craftsmanship. We approach a town called Randazzo, with the volcano sheltered majestically in the background that impressed us with its Cathedral of Santa Maria, which was started in the 13th century and rebuilt several times. The bell tower dates from the 18th century, an example of the different styles that make up this imposing church.
We start our leisurely journey around Mount Etna, sometimes right next to Ferrovia Circumetnea, a small-gauge railway that circles Mount Etna for about 90 km between Catania and Riposto. Terraced vineyards stretch out before our eyes, and the drive through small towns like Maletto, Bronte, Adrano, and Paterno was pleasantly uneventful. Once we got closer to the coastal side to the east of Mount Etna, things got much busier. We began to realize that this was in fact a public holiday and all the locals were out and about. The traffic was starting to get crazy. Continuing through Nicolosi, Trecastagni, Zafferana Etnea (where saffron was once cultivated, introduced by the Arabs), we continue through Giarre and Fiumefreedo di Sicilia towards Gardini Naxos, located right on the Ionian Sea.
The traffic in the coastal areas was now huge and along the road that bordered the coast that stretched north of Giarre, thousands of cars were parked, belonging to people who had been enjoying a sunny day on the waterfront. We continue through Giardini Naxos at a snail’s pace. This resort town southeast of Taormina was founded in 735 BC. C. by the Greeks and represents one of the oldest Greek settlements in Sicily. We passed Isola Bella and Mazzaro and took the north entrance to Taormina and got into a huge traffic jam where we sat practically motionless for about 45 minutes, a distance that should have taken us about 5 minutes under normal circumstances. Surely everyone was in the way.
It was a relief to have finally arrived in Taormina as we passed through the tunnel under the city to reach the rental company on the west side of the city. Just as the roads had been full of people, the city of Taormina was now full of people strolling. Thousands of people milled up and down the main avenue, Corso Umberto, literally rubbing elbows with the other walkers. We decided to dine outside the city gates on Via Pirandello, where the foot traffic wasn’t so crazy, and had a nice table on a terrace at Trattoria Da Lino’s, a small restaurant I had already had a couple of chats with. the owners who recognized me and greeted me kindly. From the terrace we had a great view over the northern part of the city and the Ionian Sea below us. After a hearty pasta dinner, we received a little treat: a tasting of Amandola liqueur (made from almonds) on the house, a great way to cap off an exciting day to rest up for another day of Italian lessons…